In the News | 29 November 2022

Hi everyone,

I've had to start my wind down for the year a little earlier than expected due to some health challenges. That's the main reason for the lack of newsletters in November, which I apologise for. If I can, I'll do another before the end of the year, but whether or not I'm able to, I wanted to say thanks for reading throughout 2022!

While I'm working on my health, I'm also spending some time planning 2023, so if there's a business question you'd love for AFWeekly to find some answers for, please let me know. I'm looking forward to making headway on some of the bigger questions and stories I didn't get to this year, and I hope they'll be helpful. God willing (and health dependent), AFWeekly should return mid-Jan 2023.

To the main event (news has piled up over 3 weeks, but I've cut a bit):

Africa

Adeju Thompson's Lagos Space Programme follows Thebe Magugu and MmusoMaxwell as the latest African brand to be named a Woolmark Prize finalist.

SA Fashion Week's pop up returns this weekend (2-4 December) to get small, independent brands (that are underrepresented in local retail) a slice of the festive season spending pie at Mall of Africa. 2021's pop up generated a reported 3-day total of R263 066.00 in turnover for 44 participants.

2022's Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards were handed out, with Cleo Droomer's pivoted brand taking home the coveted Changemaker prize.

AFI's runway event returned to Johannesburg with a selection of designers and brands from across the continent, and the SA Style Awards celebrated talent across the country's industry.

Journalist & researcher James Hall, whose career has been a study of Africa, invites African fashion professionals to add key names, dates and events of seminal development to his Calendar of African History.

The H&M Sustainable Production Africa Summit, a recent Cape Town event hosted by the Swedish fast fashion giant, brought retailers and suppliers with an interest in fostering a sustainable-yet-competitive South African clothing manufacturing industry together for dialogue.

Stats South Africa published new data on Black Friday and the pandemic's impact on South African shopping habits, with comparisons made against 2019, considered the last 'normal' year of trade.

Lagos Fashion Week makes headlines for its impact on the African fashion ecosystem.

Kenya and Ghana have come into focus as the end of the line for the environmental fallout of the Global North's fast fashion habits, highlighted once again in headlines after luxury resale leader Vestiaire Collective's site visit in Ghana resulted in a fast fashion platform ban (LinkedIn editor Aaron Toumazou rounded up industry commentary on the decision).

At COP27 in Egypt, stakeholders across fashion, gaming and other parts of the creative sector were asked how they could contribute to reaching climate goals. The panels, hosted at the UNFCCC Global Innovation Hub led by Massamba Thioye, included a session on how the fashion industry can contribute to creating systemic change.

Laduma Ngxokolo tells Vogue Business how his brand's international footprint is growing and shares plans for taking on the continent's luxury market.

David Tlale has been accused of sexual assault and professional exploitation and harrassment by Sindile Zack Dudumashe, a former member of the designer's communications team. Dudumashe shared the allegations on Instagram in a statement that details how he left both the brand and the industry after 3 months in the role where the alleged abuse took place, 3 years ago.

Retail

Jumia's new leadership has begun making changes to chart a course toward profitability, starting with staff cuts and the suspension of underperforming services and features.

A 10% increase in Fashion/Beauty/Home turnover and significant growth for the woolies dash platform are both good news for South Africa's Woolworths, ahead of plans to bring their clothing to their on-demand delivery platform.

Pick & Pay clothing launches its first South African designer collaboration under the new Futurewear initiative.

A slate of new malls across South Africa offer fashion retailers an extended physical footprint for more access to shoppers.

Credit utilisation is up at MRP as inflation pressures consumers.

TFG reports early successes at Bash and continues to invest in its future with talent development fellowships.

CIAFE's Frederica Brooksworth shares 5 predictions for the fashion industry's future of work.

Global

Elsewhere, scrutiny of fast fashion's sustainability efforts and the wider industry's environmental reporting standards and tools continues, virtual fashion shifts focus from the metaverse to video games, the CFDA awards lead headlines.